🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.